Mt. Laknak Kangri (Golden Eagle) - 6496m Expedition - 2024
Mt. Laknak Kangri (Golden Eagle) – 6496m Expedition – 2024
Blog by Sudeep Barve:
….and the quest continued…..
It had been just a year when a joint expedition held by The Himalayan Club and Chakram Hikers, Mumbai celebrated their success of first ascents on peaks Dzashesz Kangri (6075 m) and Manlung Kangri (6207 m) in completely unexplored Thangaman Lugmpa Valley in Eastern Karakoram, Ladakh on 13th & 16th Aug 2023, resp.
The unsatiated desire to explore the magnificence of the Thangaman Lungmpa valley, brought both the clubs together this year again to plan their explorations in the same valley. This time the team aimed at a higher and challenging peak with an altitude of 6496 m.
After the initial recce and feasibility to climb the peak, it was decided to approach the mountain from the southern face. The climb was truly challenging & technical with many crevices, bergschrund & steep slopes. The team had to fix up approx. 700 m rope on the route. Establishing the summit camp at an altitude of 6100 m on a narrow ridge, the team approached the summit from the south-west Ridge. On 14th Aug, 2024, Divyesh Muni (Leader), Sudeep Barve, Yogesh Umbare along with three Sherpas (Sangbu Bhutia, Phurten Bhote & Phupu Dorje Bhutia) made a successful first ascent of *peak 6496* m. The team named the peak as *Laknak Kangri* (Laknak= Golden Eagle in Ladakhi language). The team enjoyed mesmerizing and breathtaking views of a galaxy of peaks from the summit, predominantly 7000er peaks like MomoTsang Kangri, Aqtash on one side while Saser Kangri group of peaks, Plateau peak on the other.
Carefully negotiating equally challenging descent, the team returned safely to base camp on 15th Aug. Mahesh Kendurkar (Dy Leader) had to return to the base camp, after spending three nights at Camp 1, due to his sustained knee injury. The fifth member of the team, Prajakta Ghode earlier returned to Leh on 9th Aug due to health issues.
The team finally reached Leh in batches on 18th Aug 2024.
Eastern Karakoram Exploratory Expedition - 2023
Eastern Karakoram Exploratory Expedition – 2023
Hidden Treasures in Eastern Karakoram…
An Exploratory Mountaineering Expedition was organized jointly by The Himalayan Club & Chakram Hikers, Mulund in Eastern Karakoram, Ladakh. Expedition team Divyesh Muni (Leader), Mahesh Kendurkar (Dy. Leader), Sudeep Barve, Vineeta Muni, Monesh Devjani and Kamlesh Venugopal uncovered a hidden treasure of unclimbed peaks in the Thangman Lungpa (valley) on the famous Central Asian Trade route in Eastern Karakoram. The goal of the team was to experience the joys of exploration in unchartered terrain and enjoy the tranquillity of a place undisturbed and pristine. This unexplored valley is located a little distance from the Tulum Puti La on the road to Saser La approached from the Nubra Valley in Ladakh.
The team made the first ascent of 6075 m peak on 13th Aug 2023 and named the peak as Dzashez Kangri, meaning friendship peak to mark the friendship on this joint expedition. It was followed by another first ascent of peak 6207 m on 16th Aug which team named as peak Manlung Kangri since it overlooks the Manlung Glacier to its North.
Black Pyramid Expedition – 2022
Leader: Mahesh Kendurkar
Co-leader: Mahesh Kadam
Chakram Hikers, Mulund–organized expedition to the Phokto Sheyok (Black Pyramid) peak in the eastern Karakoram range (height 6,235 meters) has been completed, and the team reached Mumbai safely.
Compared to last year, this time the entire character of the peak had become much more challenging. Due to massive rock exposure, hard ice, and overhanging slopes, the climb was extremely difficult. In a very technical ascent, even after fixing about 450 meters of rope and jumaring for around 7 hours, the team could reach only up to 6,100 meters. Although just 135 meters of climbing remained, when the team estimated that it would require another four hours, they finally had to make the painful decision to abandon the ascent with a heavy heart.
On August 11, the team started climbing at 2:30 a.m. and returned to the summit camp at 1:00 p.m., that is, after about 11 hours. Then, considering the changing weather, they immediately had to continue for another three hours through snow to reach the Advance Base Camp. In extremely adverse conditions—bone-freezing cold and steep climbing—the team gained a lifetime experience of attempting such a climb with great precision, perseverance, determination, and a calm mind.
In the end, returning safely is what matters most!
Rongdo Valley Expedition 2021
Mountaineering Expedition in Rongdo Valley in Eastern Karakoram organized by Chakram Hikers Mulund was completed successfully. In spite of extreme bad weather conditions, strong winds, whiteout and sub-zero temperatures, team successfully reached the summit of Mt. Tara alias Mt Sagtogpa Kangri (6305 mtrs) on 6th Aug. Later on 8th Aug, Mahesh Kendurkar and Sudeep Barve attempted Mt Black Pyramid (6245 mtrs) but had to abandon the attempt after crossing 6000 mtrs due to difficult & risky terrain, fatigue and weather conditions.
Team:
Mahesh Kendurkar (Leader & Summiter)
Sudeep Barve (Dy. Leader)
Parag Oak
Aniket Rahalkar, Bhavana Sati
ThinChenKhang TCK Expedition - 2009
Mt. ThinChenKhang (TCK) Expedition – October 2009
Mt. ThinChenKhang (6010m) is a prominent, technically challenging trekking peak located in Kanchenjunga National Park in Western Sikkim. This expedition was organised in October 2009.
Leader: Mangesh Deshpande
Participants: Shantanu Pandit, Parag Pendharkar, Sekar Sadasivan, Anju Paniculam
